熱田神宮のお守り An Omamori from Atsuta Jingu

An old woman enters Atsuta Jingu, one of Shinto's holiest shrines.

Atsuta Jingu is one of Japan's most important shrines, ranking amongst the famous Ise Jingu in Mie Prefecture. The shrine complex is dedicated to the veneration of Atsuta-no-Okami, as well as the five kami of Atsuta, regional deities. In Shintoism, there are three sacred treasures brought down to earth by kami from the Heavenly Plane: a sword, a mirror, and beads. Atsuta Jingu is venerated as the host of the sacred sword, Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi. Over fifty different festivals are held every year, and the Atsuta treasure house contains records, artwork, and sacred artifacts from every historical era. When I visited the shrine, the museum hosted an exhibition on samurai swords in the shrine's collection. 

Buses full of tourists visit Atsuta Jingu year round. I visited the shrine several times while living in Nagoya and witnessed three Shinto weddings and a purification ceremony. Wondering the huge grounds and enjoying the architecture and culture of worship 

Guests return omamori to the shrine at a building beside an old, sacred tree at Atsuta. Omamori are believed to lose their potency after one year. 

Families and visitors roam Atsuta Jingu's expansive park-like grounds.

Atsuta Jingu, although reconstructed after the war, is home to examples of Japan's native architectural style. This style, shinmei zukuri, features dramatic rooftops and clean, sparse lines. Visitors worship at a distance from the honden, or the home of the kami. 

Atsuta Jingu is a sprawling complex with over a dozen smaller shrines dedicated to minor deities. 

Visitors flock to buy omamori at Atsuta. Shinto priestesses handle purchases in a long, special building. A couple prepares to leave the shrine, satisfied with their purchases.

My omamori purchases at Atsuta Jingu. Many large shrines sell omamori corresponding the different zodiac animals. (In Japan, the animals are usually incredibly cute.) I also purchased a miniature wooden shrine that is meant to be placed in offices or homes, so that the blessings of Atsuta can follower the purchaser wherever they go. 

An old woman leaves Atsuta Jingu.

大須観音のお守り An Omamori from Osu Kannon Temple

The main entrance of Osu Kannon in Nagoya City

Osu Kannon, is Nagoya’s most important temple, and a lovely place to spend the day wandering around. The temple’s present buildings date from the 20th century, as the originals were destroyed in World War II. Although the locals of Nagoya call this temple complex Osu Kannon, it's official name is Kitanosan Shinpakuji Hoshoin-osu Kannon — quite a mouthful. 

Osu Kannon was founded in 1333 in a neighboring village. After flooding problems in its original location, Osu Kannon’s original hall was moved to Nagoya by shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1612, and the temple would go on to be a storehouse for important court chronicles.  Today Osu Kannon houses the Kojiki, one of Japan's oldest historical and mythological texts. Dedicated to the bodhisattva of mercy, Kannon, Osu Kannon has attracted many worshippers and visitors for hundreds of years and the twenty-first century is no exception. 

When I first visited Osu Kannon, a friend suddenly stopped a monk to ask him where we should go to have lunch. After I got over my shock, I realized that the monk was giving us directions to a small restaurant. "The food's spicy, but good," said the monk. He paused. "There's no meat though." 

As I would learn during my study abroad experience at Nanzan University, Nagoya locals love spicy food. And they love spicy chicken. On every other street you can find cramped food stalls and restaurants selling kishimen, or fat noodles, earthy and warm red miso dishes, and spiced chicken. 

Visitors mingle amongst stalls and Buddhist saints at the monthly antique fair. 

A shopping arcade surrounds Osu Kannon where you can buy anything from vintage kimono to shish kebabs. I even discovered a few shrines, temples, and a church. But the Osu Kannon complex is a site onto itself. On the 18th and 28th of every month, the temple hosts an antique fair. I took the subway early in the morning once a month to buy Meiji era post cards and shift through antique instruments. 

No matter the season, pigeons are always flying around Osu Kannon looking for tourists to buy feed.

Osu Kannon's mascot is the pigeon, so  I purchased a pigeon omamori. The birds flock around the temple, hiding up in the old gates and bronze bells. Visitors can buy feed or bring their own. The pigeons will swoop down in less than a second at a whiff of food. Other visitors clambered to buy omamori and fortunes. 

A unique omamori from Osu Kannon featuring their unofficial mascot.